Japanese Knives

January 27th, 2012 § 0 comments § permalink

My German Henckels’ chef knife which has served me well these past years is seeing its life’s end.  Like a 1971 Chevy Impala once sleek and sharp, the knife is now chunky and heavy – a difference distinctly noticeable when you compare it with a Japanese made knife.


Time to upgrade to a new model and in right time.

A little before Christmas, my husband and I went to Korin, a store on Warren St. that sells  high quality Japanese tableware and knives.

The store displays its knives much like a jewelry store, knives reclined on purple velvet lined shelves inside glass-covered cabinets. Flushed against opposite walls, knives are divided into two sections: traditional Japanese knives and Japanese made Western -style knives.

Traditional Japanese knives are forged in two methods : honyaki knives are forged and handcrafted from pieces of high carbon steel – heated, hammered and folded to a singular piece much like the Japanese samurai swords. This process is repeated and results in a blade that is extremely sharp and strong , yet flexible.  Awase, or also called kasumi,  – are knives made from high carbon steel and soft-iron, the latter shrouding itself on the knife’s spine serving as a shock absorber.  Honyaki knife made from pure carbon steel makes for a very hard knife but it is prone to chipping and requires special care. The honyaki though retains its sharpness longer and used by professional  chefs.  Awase knives on the other hand are manufactured, are less reactive and make for a more practical knife -one that would benefit the home cook.

Both process give Japanese knives their distinguished characteristics and make it a superior blade.

Page from Japanese Kitchen Knives:Essential Techniques and Recipes by Hiromitsu Nozaki Photographs by Yasuo Konishi

Unlike Western knives , Japanese knives are crafted for specific cuts and applications. They come in a wide range, anywhere from eight basic lines and sub-lines that can total to about thirty.  Distinct of these are knives use to prepare fish and seafood. A yanagiba, is an elegantly slim and long knife, its length in perfect structure to allow the knife to slice cleanly through a fish’s delicate flesh. For unagi (eels), that are prepared fresh from a ice water filled vat, a ungai hocho is used- its blade short in length and beveled purposely giving each part of the blade a precise task. From a swift stroke by the chef and using the knife’s heel ,the eel is killed instantly.The wide straight tip structured to avoid hitting the eel’s central nerve that can still react and cause the eel to swing and slip dangerously. Purpose in every design.

Page from Japanese Kitchen Knives:Essential Techniques and Recipes by Hiromitsu Nozaki Photographs by Yasuo Konishi

The Japanese knives are for professionals, chefs who snip and cut at precise points to detach delicate fish organs without puncturing them thus marring the fish. They fillet and debone seemingly with care as if they expect the fish to still awaken from the procedure – the result is fish and seafood still blush with life.

I however wanted a knife that would  allow me to carve my chicken with less heaving, or slice hard root vegetables without much force or drag – I wanted an efficient all around knife.   So while drawn was I to those beautiful wooden water-buffalo horned rimmed knives,  the sales staff educated in the fine art of knives and perceptive  in distinguishing customers who are merely enamored with the thought  of having a Japanese knife to those who are in need,  had made a persuasive and practical advice -perhaps the Japanese made Western style knives was for me.

Above a Misono 440 Molybdenum Gyutou and below the Togiharu Inox Honesuki

After holding several in my hand, I settled on what felt right and for my purpose: a gyutou to replace my Chef’s knife and a honesuki for deboning. At Korin, your knives are sharpened by a master sharpener. The service is called honba tsuke , a common service found in Japanese stores that sell knives.

The master sat on an elevated platform and knelt over a block  that held the wet sharpening stones and sharpened swiftly. I was tempted to ask if he had by chance sharpened a unagi- hocho (the eel knife)  lately. I was curious if there were Japanese chefs out there (in New York) with vats of slippery eels but I thought not to disturb him, he was sharpening my knives after all.

 

If you are interested in purchasing a Japanese knife, I suggest visiting Korin where the sales staff are informative, helpful and will advice you on the right knife.  You can also click on their website to learn more about Japanese knives and Japanese made Western style knives.

Also of note is an excellent  book,  Japanese Kitchen Knives  by Hiromitsu Nozaki with Kate Klippensteen. It covers briefly the history, kinds, care and maintenance of  Japanese knives and techniques in cutting, slicing – methods particular to the Japanese aesthetic in food preparation.   The book focuses on three main knives (yanagiba, deba and  usuba) . A well photographed and detailed book that gives the reader the perspective of the person wielding the knife- very helpful layout.

Pasta 101

December 4th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink

We made different kinds of pasta for the Pasta 101 class last Saturday.  On this post are photographs of the step by step process of making pasta by hand  and using the pasta machine rollers and cutters. Do know you can roll the dough  into pasta sheets or sfoglia using a rolling pin and cutting them using a knife. The only difference between machine made and hand made pasta is the amount of time spent making it.

As in making all food good, all you need is a good disposition.

But before that – a more manageable fresh egg pasta recipe below.

Pasta Fresca All”uovo ( Fresh Egg Pasta)

This recipe is for 1 pound of pasta-  for 4- 6 servings:

2  cups all purpose flour
3 eggs
1 teaspoon of kosher salt

In a bowl, mix the flour and salt well. Pour flour mixture unto a clean working surface and form a circular mound about the diameter of a dinner plate. Create a crater or hole in the center and break the whole eggs into it.

Use a fork and gently whisk the eggs.

When the yolks and whites have been combined, start swirling the fork around the flour wall, incorporating a little of the flour each time with the eggs.

Continue to swirl the fork, each time getting more flour off the edges.  The mixing motion you are doing is something like scrambling eggs. If there is a break on the wall just scoop the flour to close it in.

As you continue to mix in more of the flour to the egg,  the middle will start shaping into a very wet dough.

When almost three fourths  of the flour has been mixed in, use your fingertips to mix the mass into a craggy dough.

Further work the dough and use both  hands and a bench scrapper to gather it into a cohesive piece.

Don’t worry about the loose bits of flour crumbs on the surface, continue to gather and knead the dough- it will come together.

Kneading the dough: When the dough has come together (there will still be flour on the surface of dough -that’s ok)  it time to start kneading.

1) Using the heel of your hand press down and push dough away from you.

2) Fold the top dough towards you, and again, using heel of the hand, press and push away.

3) Rotate the dough 90 degrees, and start again from step one-pressing down and pushing dough away from you. Fold the top dough towards you , rotate…..and so on.

Repeat the kneading several times till you have incorporated all the bits of flour and crumbs.

After kneading the dough (about 3-5  minutes by hand)  you should have gathered much of the crumbs and formed  a fairly soft pliable dough.Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for 10 minutes or up to 2 hours before rolling it out.

Initial Rolling of Dough:
The method of folding and rolling the dough is adapted from Pasta Sfoglia cookbook written by Ron and Colleen Suhanosky. The Suhanoskys are the owners of the acclaimed restaurant Sfoglia in New York and Nantucket. This beautiful  book features recipes inspired from their frequent travels in Italy and centers on pasta. The recipes are traditional at its core but also fresh and creative. Get the book if only for the excellent recipe for Bolognese  Sauce. It beguiles one to cook.

After the dough has rested, divide the dough into three pieces. Shape each piece roughly into a disc and sprinkle rice flour. Try not to handle and press the dough more than you have to. Keep the other discs covered with plastic wrap as you work.

To dust the dough and rollers I use rice flour because it  holds less moisture – great for sticky situations like handling wet pasta dough.  If you do not have rice flour, all purpose flour will also work.

Set the pasta rollers setting to No. 1. Feed dough and let it pass through the rollers once.

Take the dough and fold into thirds – fold each end in the middle. Press down to seal the seams and edges.  Dust it with  flour.

With the open end down, feed the dough through the rollers once.

Fold the sheet into thirds again , do not forget to  press and seal the seams.  Feed the rollers and let it pass through the rollers a second time.  Do the whole step-folding and passing through the  rollers two more times ( a total of 4) .

Set the rollers to No. 2 and pass the pasta sheet through the rollers twice.

Set the rollers to No. 3 and pass the pasta sheet through the rollers twice.

Set the rollers to No. 4  and pass the pasta sheet through the rollers twice.

The pasta sheet will be about a foot and half in length at this point.Cut the sheet in half.

From hereon further rolling will depend on what kind of pasta you are making.

Rolling for ribbon pastas ( pappardelle, fettuccine, tagliatelle)

Set the rollers on No. 4  and pass the pasta sheet through the rollers twice.

Set rollers on No. 5  and pass the pasta sheet through the rollers thrice.

Half each sheet. Dust both sides of the sheet with rice flour.  Lay the sheets in a towel lined sheet pan and cover with a slightly damped cloth.

Repeat with the other pasta sheet.

How to cut pasta :

To cut  the pasta to pappardelle: Lay two pasta sheets on top of the other and roll into a slightly tight cigar. Trim both edges to make the sides even. Cut the roll into 1 inch lengths.

Unfurl the coils and stretch out ribbons of pasta. Dust with rice flour so they do not stick to each other.

Below are various pasta I’ve cut using the cutter attachment that came with the pasta roller. The Kitchen Aid Pasta set I have come with three attachments-  a roller, a fettuccine  and spaghetti cutter.  But you can also cut the pasta sheets  by hand into different widths to make  fettuccine ( 3/4 inch), linguine 1/4 inch using a knife.

 

Rolling for ravioli, cannelloni or lasagna:

After you have done the initial rolling , folding and cutting  pasta sheet above .

Set the rollers to No. 4 and pass pasta sheet through rollers thrice.

Half the sheet . Dust each sheet with rice flour and lay on a kitchen towel lined sheet pan and cover with slightly damped towel till ready to use.You can use each sheet for lasagna , canneloni or ravioli. (each sheet can make about 3-4 raviolis)

Repeat the process with the remaining pasta sheet.

 

Buon Appetito!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beef Short Ribs for Sokalbi Gui ( Essentials of Korean Cooking)

November 23rd, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink

Beef short ribs can come from different parts of the steer or cow, but for now I will focus on beef short ribs taken from the shoulder part; or in retail meat term-chuck.

Beef short ribs from this primal cut come in different style cuts. Typically in supermarkets here in the US  you will find beef short ribs cut English style - here each piece is cut along  the rib bone about 3 inches in length.   (Note the label will not read English style, but simply beef short ribs chuck).

 

Short ribs contain a marbling of fat and connective tissue that contributes to  the “meaty-steak” flavor we associate with beef.  It is a cut though that needs to soften and will do best  either by braising or stewing (both cooking methods refer to cooking food in liquids on low heat).

In the Essentials of Korean Cooking class, we prepared the beef short ribs for barbeque  in Sokalbi Gui  by butterflying the rib.  Setting the short rib with the bone on the bottom, we cut the upper meaty part away from the bone creating a flap- and resembling an open book. (When you slice, leave some layer of meat attached to the bone.)

Depending on the thickness of  the meat, you can further butterfly the flap to make an even thinner  and longer piece  to ensure the  beef cooks thoroughly and  evenly on the grill.

 

 

 

Beef short ribs can come boneless

 

Here is the same boneless beef short rib I have cut to several thin pieces.

 

The other style of short rib cut is called flanken style but instead of a parallel cut along the bone, as it is with English style, it is sliced crosswise across 3-4 rib bones. In some Asian supermarkets it is labeled Beef Short Ribs LA style.

Beef short ribs in any cut,  braised or stewed, will yield a considerable amount of liquid fat- be sure to skim this off from the braising or stewing liquid after cooking, so as not to dissipate the flavor of the sauce. In grilling or barbequing you need to  watch the fat drippings as it can cause serious flare- ups on the stove.

On lazy days, or when you don’t have all the ingredients you need for the Kalbi marinade, you can buy them ready-made in the   Korean supermarket. I usually get mine from H-Mart , one of the largest Asian supermarkets that not only carry Korean goods but has a wide selection of Asian ingredients. But then again, if you are already in the supermarket, you can gather the ingredients to make a far more superior kalbi marinade.