My German Henckels’ chef knife which has served me well these past years is seeing its life’s end. Like a 1971 Chevy Impala once sleek and sharp, the knife is now chunky and heavy – a difference distinctly noticeable when you compare it with a Japanese made knife.
Time to upgrade to a new model and in right time.
A little before Christmas, my husband and I went to Korin, a store on Warren St. that sells high quality Japanese tableware and knives.
The store displays its knives much like a jewelry store, knives reclined on purple velvet lined shelves inside glass-covered cabinets. Flushed against opposite walls, knives are divided into two sections: traditional Japanese knives and Japanese made Western -style knives.
Traditional Japanese knives are forged in two methods : honyaki knives are forged and handcrafted from pieces of high carbon steel – heated, hammered and folded to a singular piece much like the Japanese samurai swords. This process is repeated and results in a blade that is extremely sharp and strong , yet flexible. Awase, or also called kasumi, – are knives made from high carbon steel and soft-iron, the latter shrouding itself on the knife’s spine serving as a shock absorber. Honyaki knife made from pure carbon steel makes for a very hard knife but it is prone to chipping and requires special care. The honyaki though retains its sharpness longer and used by professional chefs. Awase knives on the other hand are manufactured, are less reactive and make for a more practical knife -one that would benefit the home cook.
Both process give Japanese knives their distinguished characteristics and make it a superior blade.
Page from Japanese Kitchen Knives:Essential Techniques and Recipes by Hiromitsu Nozaki Photographs by Yasuo Konishi
Unlike Western knives , Japanese knives are crafted for specific cuts and applications. They come in a wide range, anywhere from eight basic lines and sub-lines that can total to about thirty. Distinct of these are knives use to prepare fish and seafood. A yanagiba, is an elegantly slim and long knife, its length in perfect structure to allow the knife to slice cleanly through a fish’s delicate flesh. For unagi (eels), that are prepared fresh from a ice water filled vat, a ungai hocho is used- its blade short in length and beveled purposely giving each part of the blade a precise task. From a swift stroke by the chef and using the knife’s heel ,the eel is killed instantly.The wide straight tip structured to avoid hitting the eel’s central nerve that can still react and cause the eel to swing and slip dangerously. Purpose in every design.
Page from Japanese Kitchen Knives:Essential Techniques and Recipes by Hiromitsu Nozaki Photographs by Yasuo Konishi
The Japanese knives are for professionals, chefs who snip and cut at precise points to detach delicate fish organs without puncturing them thus marring the fish. They fillet and debone seemingly with care as if they expect the fish to still awaken from the procedure – the result is fish and seafood still blush with life.
I however wanted a knife that would allow me to carve my chicken with less heaving, or slice hard root vegetables without much force or drag – I wanted an efficient all around knife. So while drawn was I to those beautiful wooden water-buffalo horned rimmed knives, the sales staff educated in the fine art of knives and perceptive in distinguishing customers who are merely enamored with the thought of having a Japanese knife to those who are in need, had made a persuasive and practical advice -perhaps the Japanese made Western style knives was for me.
Above a Misono 440 Molybdenum Gyutou and below the Togiharu Inox Honesuki
After holding several in my hand, I settled on what felt right and for my purpose: a gyutou to replace my Chef’s knife and a honesuki for deboning. At Korin, your knives are sharpened by a master sharpener. The service is called honba tsuke , a common service found in Japanese stores that sell knives.
The master sat on an elevated platform and knelt over a block that held the wet sharpening stones and sharpened swiftly. I was tempted to ask if he had by chance sharpened a unagi- hocho (the eel knife) lately. I was curious if there were Japanese chefs out there (in New York) with vats of slippery eels but I thought not to disturb him, he was sharpening my knives after all.
If you are interested in purchasing a Japanese knife, I suggest visiting Korin where the sales staff are informative, helpful and will advice you on the right knife. You can also click on their website to learn more about Japanese knives and Japanese made Western style knives.
Also of note is an excellent book, Japanese Kitchen Knives by Hiromitsu Nozaki with Kate Klippensteen. It covers briefly the history, kinds, care and maintenance of Japanese knives and techniques in cutting, slicing – methods particular to the Japanese aesthetic in food preparation. The book focuses on three main knives (yanagiba, deba and usuba) . A well photographed and detailed book that gives the reader the perspective of the person wielding the knife- very helpful layout.
